Published: December, 2001
To blazes with journalistic standoffishness: we adore Lapis. Devastatingly gorgeous waterfront views combine with hip to the tip décor for a hallucinogenic blend of old waterfront class (cruise ships tie up just outside floor to ceiling windows, making you feel like you’re in a 30’s movie) and high-tech high living (folk party here like it really is still 1999 and there never was a dot-bomb). Simply the coolest place for a drink in San Francisco these days is the private nook – open to the public — just off the bar; go there and settle into the armchairs facing the water with a martini and just try and say you don’t agree. Ask for ubiquitous Managing Partner Steven Smith – tell him we sent you – and take in an unrepentant hippie, thriving no less.
Lapis is perhaps the most exciting pioneer of the new waterfront aesthetic, and we’d enjoy going there just for the atmosphere. But all the major critics agree that the food is also to die for. We asked celebrity chef Thomas Ricci to show us something we could try at home.
Creamy superfine polenta, sautéed Italian chestnuts, and roasted black mission figs
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
For the Chicken
» 4 each 7 oz. gourmet skinless chicken breasts (gourmet is a one piece boneless double breast)
» 1 pound pancetta thinly sliced cross- wise, try to keep in whole rinngs, ask your butcher for help
» 4 -8 medium to large brined grape leaves
» 4oz. goat cheese or chevre
» 1bunch of sage
For the Polenta
» 1 cup superfine polenta
» 1 1/2 cups chicken stock
» 1 1/2 cups milk or half and half
» 1 medium sized onion finely chopped
» 1 bay leaf
For the sauce
» 2 cups of roasted chicken stock reduction
» 1 pound of black mission figs
» 1 pound of peeled, roasted chestnuts
» 2 shallots
salt, pepper
Take the chicken and season lightly on both sides and place a cigar shaped oz. of the goat cheese with the finely chopped sage inside. Carefully wrap the breasts around the goat cheese, not squeezing too tightly. Flatten out a large single grape leaf or two smaller grape leaves on the cutting board. If the leaves are too salty soak them in cold water first, however they do help to flavor the chicken, but adjust your seasoning accordingly. Place the chicken in the grape leaf almost like you would a baby in a clean diaper and thoroughly wrap, leaving no exposed areas. Then take the pancetta and wrap it around the chicken, starting at one end and working towards the other, over-lapping the pieces to make a snug fit cocoon like wrap. Put aside.
In a medium sized pot saute until translucent the chopped onions with a touch of salt and one bay leaf. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. When boiling, take a whisk and slowly add the cup of polenta in a steady stream while whisking gently but constantly. As all the polenta is added gently whisk for one minute and then lower the heat to a low simmer. Switch to a wooden spoon and stir frequently, cleaning the sides and bottom. Be careful as splattering polenta leaves a nasty burn, it’s like molten lava. Continue for twenty minutes or until the polenta is no longer coarse and gritty but melts in your mouth. Cover and let rest.
In a large cast iron pan or griswald, heat up 3 oz. of olive oil until lightly smoking. Add your 4 chicken breasts carefully, do not over crowd the pan, you can do this in two stages. Drop the heat to low- medium and roll around the wrapped breasts until all sides are golden brown approximately 6 minutes. Repeat if necessary. Place in a 350 degree oven and cook for 4-5 minutes or until done. Do not overcook as the goat cheese will leak out. Meanwhile in a small sauté pan, sauté your halved figs and chestnuts with a little finely chopped shallot. Add the roasted chicken stock reduction and bring to a simmer. Finish with a touch of butter for silkiness if desired. Remove the chicken from the oven and let rest two to three minutes. Place a
dollop of polenta in the middle of each plate. Spoon the sauce generously around the polenta evenly distributing the figs and chestnuts. Slice each chicken into six to eight rings and lay across the polenta. I prefer a red wine like a Sangiovese or a Rhone Pinot up to a Zinfandel while eating this dish, however rieslings and viognier do well also.
