Published: May, 2001
Tiburon’s not hard to love, set like it is on the tip of the Tiburon Peninsula overlooking Raccoon Strait, Angel Island, and San Francisco. The surprise here is the strong sense of place. The town is very much lived in by its residents, and the experience is very real. Many people come to Tiburon to enjoy the beautiful restaurants along the waterfront. The perfect getaway, its only 6 miles over the water from the city, yet it is a different world-highly scenic and rich in heritage. In Tiburon’s not so distant past, railroad tracks and a ferry terminal made up much of what is now downtown. This was the empire of Peter Donahue, a profoundly driven man who started Union Iron Works, the first foundry in gold rush-era San Francisco. He produced many ships and locomotives before bringing to Tiburon his San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad-complete with ferry service from San Francisco and a rail line from Tiburon to San Rafael. By 1885, the daily schedule included 6 round-trip train and ferry connections between San Francisco and San Rafael with stops north to Cloverdale.
The SF&NP Railroad competed with John Doherty’s North Pacific Coast Railroad in Sausalito. In the heyday of the local lines, it cost 50 cents round-trip from San Francisco to San Rafael whether you went with Donahue’s line through Tiburon or Doherty’s line via Sausalito. The spirited local lines thrived on the competition, and the rival ferries would race to the San Francisco dock. Once in 1886, Sausalito’s San Rafael and Donahue’s Tiburon, collided near the San Francisco Ferry building, badly damaging the superstructure of the San Rafael, but breaking only a window on the Tiburon. Imagine the raucousness of ferryboats dueling for the speed. Racing was not officially endorsed under either management, but it had been announced that any captain caught losing to a Donahue ferry would be given double the usual five demerits dealt to a captain caught racing.
In an different context, the race of speed lives on for the ferries serving Tiburon and Sausalito today. In an effort to increase ridership by enticing commuters, the Sausalito fleet introduced a faster boat. Not to be outdone, the Tiburon fleet followed suit, only to find that some Tiburon commuters are more interested in their quality time onboard. Promoters of the slow ride, a group known as the fantail club, was concerned that the fast boat (20 minute crossing) left no time for a second cocktail. The slow boat (30 minute crossing) was put back on the schedule to meet the demand. If you ride the slow boat to Tiburon, you may find them rolling dice at the bar to determine who wins the honor of buying the round for riding members. Dick Otter, a Belvedere stock broker whose been riding since 1968, was out of the dice game with a high roll, and kind enough to explain for me the club rituals. The back of Dick’s membership card distinguishes the fantail club as the oldest established permanent floating commute club. Members agree to: promote the ferryboat as the only way to commute, and to smile at all strangers who ride the ferry. Meanwhile, Paul Keating, Tom Freilberger, Doug O’Conner and Jack Brooks continue to roll the dice until each (except ultimately Paul) rolls out. Paul buys the round. Now we go topside Dick tells me. Fantail club members have a
requirement for membership that they be shat upon by a seagull while on the fantail of the boat. Dick informs me that this usually occurs when the herring run. The props flip the fish up, and the gulls follow. After riding the ferry to Tiburon on such a fine evening, I decide fantail clubbers’ve got their priorities in life well figured out.
But, what happened to the Tiburon and other tales? The Tiburon, powered by an engine Donahue built in his Union Iron Works, was the first ferry built in Tiburon. It was the star of the line until it was outperformed by Donahue’s new ferry, the Ukiah . Obsolete, the Tiburon was retired, served as a dormitory along the Tiburon Wharf in 1922 for railroad strikebreakers, and was later sold for scrap. Also built at Tiburon, and so named when the Donahue line extended north to Ukiah in 1890, the Ukiah was the largest ferry ferryboat in the world at the time. The Ukiah was rebuilt and renamed the Eureka in 1923, when it ran between Sausalito and San Francisco until 1941, and then between San Francisco-Oakland until 1957. You can now visit the Eureka at the San Francisco Maritime State Historical Park in San Francisco. Not until 1962 did Tiburon see direct ferry service again, thanks to a push from the Belvedere Tiburon Conservation League in an effort to ease traffic congestion and rejuvenate the waterfront.
As ferry service changed, so did the rail lines, the smaller lines being absorbed into the Northwestern Pacific Railway Company. When Peter Donahue died in 1885, just a year and a half after bringing the railroad to Tiburon, his son James Merven became president of the railroad, though his reign lasted only 5 years until his death in 1890. The SF & NP Railroad was then sold, and eventually became part of the Northwestern Pacific. With Donahue’s SF&NP now alongside rival North Shore Railroad (successor to Doherty’s North Pacific Coast), and lines north to Humboldt County, the Northwestern Pacific operated over 400 miles of track between the Bay Area and the Redwood Empire.
The consolidation brought the end of passenger trains and ferry service between Tiburon and San Francisco, by 1909. The Northwestern Pacific passenger terminal shifted to Sausalito, and Tiburon became the main freight and mechanical terminal. A new ferry was needed to connect to Sausalito, and the Donahue was revived to serve Tiburon until the Requa was brought in from Vancouver . Burned, rebuilt and renamed, the Marin, it linked the towns until buses replaced it in 1933. In 1941, Sausalito ferry service ceased as the Golden Gate Bridge made it unprofitable, and passenger train traffic was also waning. San Rafael became the passenger terminal for Northwestern Pacific in 1942, running only 2 San Rafael-Eureka passenger trains. Known as the Eureka Express, the train left passengers at San Rafael and steamed to Tiburon only for servicing and cleaning. The run was soon abandoned, and since 1958, there has been no passenger service south of Willits.
The Tiburon railyard became less important as repairs were shifted to parent Southern Pacific yards. The last of the machine shops were closed in 1963. The last train pulled out of Tiburon yards in 1967, with 8 freight cars unloaded from a Santa Fe barge. This was 83 years after Peter Donahue’s inaugural excursion aboard the Donahue, which celebrated the opening of his new rail and ferry line from San Francisco. Sculptor Douglas Tilden has created a monument to the many crafts of Colonel Donahue (located at the corner of Bush and Market Streets in San Francisco). It marks the dawn of an era you can visit at the Tiburon Railroad and Ferry Museum.
Donahue originally constructed the Tiburon Railroad-Ferry Museum building in 1884 as the terminal depot. It was then surrounded by train sheds, a round house, machine shops, offices, and the ferry slip with a wharf running down both sides. In all, the huge, deep water complex encompassed more than 60 acres, with 50 buildings. The museum alone now graces the Paradise Drive waterfront, downstairs depicting the old passenger terminal station for both trains and ferries, while the upstairs recreates the home of the railroad agent William Bent and his family. This is one of two surviving dual-use terminals nation-wide. The museum houses a working model of the old Tiburon rail yard, and reveals how the local working class lived upstairs. Its also fun to wander some of the old neighborhoods, like nearby Old Tiburon, to get a feel for the old days. Tiburon literally sprung up when the train arrived. Some of the oldest homes date back to this era. Other neighborhoods with original homes include Belvedere Street, Italian Row, and Community Road.
After exploring the depot, follow the waterfront east. Beyond the Museum is elephant rock and its public pier, and the Caprice Restaurant (popular with the locals, and the only restaurant with a bridge view in Tiburon.) Next begins Old Tiburon, the entrance marked by Lyford’s Tower, built in 1889 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Many homes in Old Tiburon, also known Lyford’s Hygea, have been re-done beyond historic recognition, but some do reflect their heritage. The beautiful homes attest that Tiburon has come a long way since the railroad days. Both Sides of the Tracks is the title of a book you might want to look over at the new library downtown. It relays Tiburon’s oral histories. Another is A Pictorial History of Tiburon.
The Belvedere-Tiburon Landmarks Society has done a good job of bringing Tiburon’s rich history to life with the Railroad Ferry Museum, the historical walking tour, interpretive signs at China Cabin and Lyford’s Tower, and friendly docents, many of them old-timers, at Old St. Hilary’s and the depot museum. The shops and restaurants you’ll encounter are mostly locally run, long-time establishments, many housed in historic buildings. Indeed, the town has retained many of its old time residents over the years-If you’re lucky, you’ll meet several while you’re here. The four outings described here are my favorites, not only because of their obvious attributes, like a beautiful setting, but because they provide an opportunity to meet some interesting people and the places they hold dear.
1. The Angel Island Ferry and Angel Island. Not only can you get to Tiburon by ferry and thrive here for days with no car, you can, and should, take a ride on the Angel Island-Tiburon Ferry (415) 435-2131- a Tiburon institution and family run business for forty years. If you want to get on the bay at night, check out their sunset cruise-the San Francisco Chronicle considers this one of the best kept secrets of the Bay. Different from the commuter ferry experience, the Angel Island ferry is about being on the Bay with a colorful host, possibly a member of the founding McDonogh family. The 3rd (Milt) or 4th (Maggie) generation may be driving your boat. Milt is quite possibly the oldest captain on San Francisco Bay. A bit of a legend, he is now on his 13th reissue of his Coast Guard license, which are good for 5 years (that’s over 65 years.) His stories go back to the railroad days. The first of the McDonogh’s, Samuel, came to Tiburon when the railroad arrived, opening McDonogh’s Chowder and Boarding House, catering to railroad workers and visitors. His son Sam II began the launch, transporting military supplies and personnel to Angel Island. He ran the marine shuttle between towers of the Golden Gate Bridge while it was under construction. His son Milt later began Angel Island
Ferry service in 1959. The Angel Island you can ride today was designed and built by Milt in the 1975. Milt’s daughter Maggie is now driving the family business, having incorporated educational group cruises, and the forthcoming Marine Environment Program- an awesome effort that will inspire young people to preserve and rehabilitate the Bay. The ferry takes 30,000 school children out to the island each year, allowing them to run the boat, bottom trawl for fish (that they catalog and id before returning), and assorted other chances at adventures of a lifetime. Maggie and her family are a piece of real Tiburon. I appreciate their deep rooted commitment to the Bay environment. Whether its Angel Island or ecology, the McDonogh’s are fun and inspiring people to have explain it.
The Angel Island ferry provides public access to Angel Island State Park, complete with great bay views. The Island itself is beautiful, with wildflowers, rolling hills and gorgeous views everywhere. The whole island is open to the public except Point Blunt and Point Stuart which are active Coast Guard stations. To orient yourself, get a copy of the Angel Island State Park Map. You can call (415)435-1915 for recorded general park information and a ferry schedule. At the landing in Ayala Cove there is a visitor center, and a concessionaire who operates the Cove Cafe and tram tours in the summer. Bike rentals are available here for $10 per hour including a helmet. Or you can bring your bike on the ferry.
The 5-mile loop around the island on the Perimeter Road passes many historic sites (a half-hour bike ride or a three-hour hike). After the Civil War began, West Garrison was established to protect the Bay Area from Confederate attack. Overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz and southern Marin shores, it contains the largest collection of wooden civil war- era buildings in the US. Several trails promote an hour’s hike from the Perimeter Road to the top of the island’s 781-foot summit, Mount Caroline Livermore, for a panoramic view of the bay. Perle’s Beach is the best bet for a beach walk on a broad, though windswept, sandy beach. Quarry Beach is on the calmer side of the island, next to remains of the military base Fort McDowell, which served during the Spanish American War and Panama Canal construction, and later became the world’s largest and most elaborate US military troop embarkation point. During W.W.II up to 80,000 people passed through this now quiet cove annually. The Immigration station at North Garrison, overlooking China Cove, was the main portal of entry for immigrants from Asia from 1910 to 1940, and later became a prison for Japanese, German and Italians who happened to be onboard ships in West Coast harbors when W.W.II broke out. You can visit the Immigration Station, the Quarantine Station, Camp Reynolds, and Fort McDowell with docents from the Angel Island Association (415) 435-3522. For a major highlight, schedule a guided sea kayak trip out of Ayala Cove through Sea Trek (415) 488-1000 in Sausalito. The three-hour trips depart Sundays at 10:30 and 1pm. Depending on the winds and tides, trips generally seek the island’s leeward side, allowing for a paddle to West Garrison or China Cove. You ride the ferry over and back and Sea Trek deals with the logistics of getting the kayaks across.
2. Main Street and Ark Row Stroll
The stroll along Main Street and Ark Row is a history trip with great shopping. Spend plenty of time here. It is one of those only-in-Tiburon opportunities, so some historic tidbits are in order. Main Street is the waterfront, and most everything on the east side of the street is a restaurant on a deck over the water. The west side holds shops. As you stand at the corner of Main Street, its fun to think that in the 1940s there was a hardware store, market, bakery, garage and post office, plus Sam’s Anchor Cafe. Now things are less about utility, and proprietors aim to pamper and entice: Guaymas is a Mecca in gourmet Mexican food, and they have a nice happy hour. The Water’s Edge is a beautiful, new boutique hotel on the water. The Sweden House Bakery and Cafe is a favorite of locals, as is Rooney’s Garden Cafe across the street. Servino’s is the classic Italian Trattoria. But its Sam’s, with its world famous deck and fresh seafood, that has the long and colorful past: Sam Vella started out in 1920 with a tent on the beach where he served breakfast and sandwiches to the rail workers. He made his fortune bootlegging, and the restaurant was his hub. A trap door to the bay still exists beneath the floor that provided access for boats bringing whiskey. Sam and his wife spent their lives at the restaurant- dining each night at a corner table. They retired in 1960, though the restaurant remains a locally run Tiburon institution. Both Clancy and Mary, who showed me the historic photographs in the dining room, knew all of the great, old stories, each having been at Sam’s for years.
Many of the shops provide unique opportunities. Billie Charton’s Westerley Coffee, Tea and Spice house at 46 Main is a step back in time to the essence of Tiburon. The Main Street Gallery, at 20 Main, features old world carpets that will enchant you. There are also several clothing and gift shops. Around the corner is Ark Row, a row of shops restfully beaded with benches. Keep in mind that Lower Ark Row, by the Tiburon Thrift Shop and Ed’s Garage (with its wonderful antique car displays) was the waterfront in the 1890s. From here you would be traveling by boat. Some of these shops are old arks brought to rest on Corinthian Island. Everything here is worth a look. The Windsor Vineyards, a historic rooming house, offers wine tasting and you can select bottles from their catalogue with personalized labels. Raffiniti offers contemporary work by California Artisans. Faux-Get-Me-Not offers home accessories in faux finishes. Owner Karen Leveen does children’s parties complete with wooden boxes to be decorated, and instruction. The Watermark at Tiburon Books is an excellent bookstore. The Tiburon Deli at 106 Main makes great picnics. The older buildings are toward the west end, where several cottages and an ark date from the 1890s. Main street ends nearby at Beach Street. Turn left and follow the water to the China Cabin, open Wed and Sun from 1-4pm. It is a feast for the eyes of gold leaf and architectural moldings. This old saloon was salvaged when the S.S. China was burned for scrap metal in 1886. It was used as a residence for 90 years before being refurbished for the Landmarks Society as a museum. (Image the intricacy of this job)!
There are several more stores worth visiting along Tiburon Boulevard between Main and Beach Streets. Paradise Ice Cream and Burgers is worth a mid-day visit and the New Morning Cafe serves a popular breakfast-both are well loved by the locals. Further along Tiburon Boulevard, at Beach, the Boardwalk Shopping Center has several worthwhile shops, notably the Custom House fine antiques and collectibles. Shorebirds Kids sells fun clothing and toys, and there are several shops featuring women’s clothing. Jeanie’s Java serves coffee and pastries from Tiburon’s Sweet Things Bakery. Across from Jeanie’s is Go West Salon and Spa. Point Tiburon Plaza is across Tiburon Boulevard from Main Street. Inside, The Dynasty Restaurant offers good Chinese Food. Point Tiburon will be the site of the 18th Annual Tiburon Wine Festival May 19, which Steve Seares, co-owner of Sam’s, says provides a wonderful opportunity to sample and compare premium wines in one of the most beautiful locations on the San Francisco Bay.
3. Old St. Hilary’s, Gateway to the hills Old St. Hilary’s is a true Tiburon landmark. Its open Wed and Sun 1-4, but the wildflowers can be seen anytime between sunrise and sunset. Walk up Beach Street until it becomes Esperanza-and keep going until you reach Old St. Hilary’s Historic Preserve– Leave enough day light to walk the paths that wind through the hills. Because of the unique setting on serpentine rock, dotted with natural springs, you will see beautiful things here that you can see nowhere else-poppies for sure, but also the rare Tiburon paintbrush, Tiburon buckwheat, and Marin Dwarf flax. Watch for the black jewel flower, one of the rarest species in the world, it exists only in serpentine here on the tip of the Tiburon Peninsula. Old St. Hilary’s is Tiburon’s oldest church, built in 1888. Historians note that residents of all faiths were glad to see the roman catholic church come to the rowdy railroad town. The church is one of the few remaining examples of Carpenter Gothic (a simplified interpretation of gothic revival architecture by a carpenter with available materials) to survive in its original condition and setting. Below the church is the John Thomas Howell Botanical Garden, preserved in honor of the Emeritus Curator of Botany, California Academy of Sciences, and member of the Belvedere-Tiburon Landmarks Society. Howell describes St. Hilary’s Preserve as one of the most interesting and remarkable and beautiful wildflower gardens in California and therefore the world. Nowhere else in the state can so many wonderful plants be found in so small a space. Phenomenally, there are 217 species in all, two-thirds of which are native to this area, many uncommon. Different things are in bloom all year round, but most choose April and May. If you follow Dakin Lane above the church, you will enjoy the view of the open hills, the church, the town, the bay and the city. You can continue to Vistazo West and follow it left to its end, by the sign on a gate, to the old St. Hilary’s Open Space Preserve. From here, trails connect with Tiburon Uplands Nature Reserve and eventually The Nature Conservancy’s Ring Mountain Preserve, all of which are must-sees.
4. The Tiburon Peninsula Bike Loop If you like to ride your bike, get a copy of the Marin Bicycle Map for Road, Mountain, and Transit Biking, published by the Marin County Bicycle Coalition at (415) 457-8687. The Tiburon peninsula street loop follows Paradise Drive, a beautiful country road, around the peninsula to the backside of Tiburon. Though the shoulder is narrow, traffic is generally light, and there are a few spots to get off and rest. The Romberg Tiburon Center for environmental studies at San Francisco State University, researches marine science with a focus on the San Francisco Bay. The science and education center is accessible to the public only on Discovery Day, October 7, or by reservation ( http://rtc.sfsu.edu). Paradise Park offers a great place for picnics with a beautiful beach and fishing pier. Cut over to Tiburon Boulevard on Trestle Glen Boulevard (there was a railroad trestle here until it was dismantled in 1968-hence the name.) Cross Tiburon Boulevard to Blackie’s Pasture and the northeastern end of the Tiburon Bike Path. This gorgeous, off-street, paved bike path is the waterfront route you will use for the return to town. For now, go right, passing through the car barrier, and ride along Greenwood Beach Road to the Richardson Bay Audobon Sanctuary, where you can enjoy a beach and trails along Richardson Bay. Do stop in at the Lyford House, the Victorian gothic mansion, painted yellow with white trim. It is one of the oldest homes in Marin County. Inside are some period furnishings in the living room, study, library, bedroom, and child’s room. The bird photographs on the walls were taken circa 1920 by Mr. Donald Dickey, a well known ornithologist. Though the setting is phenomenally beautiful, its is not the home’s original location. It was built in 1878 at Harbor Cove in Strawberry, and was barged across Richardson Bay in 1957. It just so happened that when it was offered by its owner for preservation on the
condition that it be moved from Strawberry Point, to prevent further vandalism, the current site was offered for preservation by its owner so it would not be subdivided and developed. Thanks to fate of timing, you can explore the Lyford House, with its 800 acres of tidelands renown for migratory bird watching. There is a book store, and shoreline and hillside paths. Be sure to check also for guided walks. Enjoy Richardson Bay as you ride back to downtown along the old railroad right-of-way.
The Tiburon Playhouse at 40 Main is the town’s movie theatre. Call (415)435-1234 for movie listings while you’re here.
The Blue and Gold Fleet may be adding a late night service to San Francisco in June (415) 705-5555, 773-1188; and will provide round-trip ferry sevice from Tiburon to Pacific Bell Park for all weekend Giants games, and direct return trip service on weeknights (415)705-5555.
Special Events
18th Annual Tiburon Wine Festival Saturday, May 19, at Point Tiburon Plaza May 19 from 1-4:30pm. Tickets available at Windsor Vineyards or at the event.(415)435-5633.
Shopping
The Custom House on the Boardwalk at 1550 Tiburon Blvd is antique consignment shop.
Shorebirds on the Boardwalk at 1550 Tiburon Blvd sells handcrafts with a ocean theme.
Shorebirds Kids on the Boardwalk at 1550 Tiburon Blvd sells toys and clothing.
The Main Street Gallery at 20 Main sells old world carpets.
Still Life at 88 Main is an interesting clothing source.
RJSax at 30 Main specializes in Hawaiian wear and leathers.
Westerley Coffee, Tea and Spice House at 46 Main is the shop for foodies.
Tiburon Thrift Shop at 94 Main in Lower Ark Row is sponsored by local churches and the Landmark Society.
Windsor Vineyards at 72 Main on Ark Row offers wine tasting and personalized bottles.
The Watermark at Tiburon Books at 82 Main on Ark Row is the bookstore.
Raffiniti at 108 Main on Ark Row offers contemporary work by California artisans.
Faux Get-Me-Not at 116 Main on Ark Row offers home accessories in faux finishes.
Galleries
James Liu’s at 34 Main (415)435-4333.
Atelier Gallery 2MG is coming soon to Tiburon Boulevard.
Grace Slick Gallery at 80 Main on Ark Row features Grace Slick paintings (415)435-7790.
Switzer Gallery at 104 Main in historic houseboat on Ark Row (415) 789-5289.
Food
Guaymas at 5 Main is gourmet Mexican food and a great happy hour (415) 435-6300.
Boudin Sourdough Bakery and Cafe at 1 Main (415) 435-0777.
Servino’s at 114 Main is an Italian trattoria (415) 435-2676.
Sam’s at 27 Main is the place for a beer on the deck on sunny afternoons (415) 435-4527.
Sweden House Cafe at 35 Main is the bakery: pastries, breakfast, lunch (415) 435-9767.
Tiburon Deli at 106 Main along Ark Row makes great picnics (415) 435-4888.
Paradise Ice Cream and Burgers is worth a mid-day visit (415) 435-8823.
New Morning Cafe serves a popular breakfast on Tiburon Boulevatd (415) 435-4315.
Jeanie’s Java in the Courtyard is on the Boardwalk. Jeanie roasts her own coffee and serves pastries from Sweet Things Bakery (415) 435-1513.
Rooney’s Garden Cafe is a great place for lunch (415) 435-1911.
The Dynasty Restaurant in Point Tiburon Plaza offers good Chinese Food (415) 435-6766.
The Caprice at 2000 Paradise Drive is good, popular with locals for special occasions, and is the only Tiburon restaurant with a golden gate bridge view (415) 435-3400.
Waypoint Pizza at 15 Main (415) 435-2619.
Shark’s Deli at 1600 Tiburon Blvd (415) 435-9130.
Lodging
The Water’s Edge at 25 Main is a new boutique hotel on the water (415) 789-5999.
Tiburon Lodge at 1651 Tiburon Blvd (415) 435-3133.
Bike and Kayak Rentals
Sea Trek books kayak trips from Angel Island at (415) 488-1000.
Angel Island State Park rents bikes and helmets at (415) 897-0715, www.angelisland.com.
Demo Sport on Tiburon Boulevard rents in-line skates and bikes at (415) 435-5111.
Transportation
Blue and Gold (415) 705-5555, (415) 773-1188, or www.blueandgoldfleet.com.
Angel Island Ferry (415) 435-2131.
Golden Gate Transit (415) 923-2000, 455-2000 (bus only)
Touring Information
Angel Island State Park (415) 435-1915, Angel Island Association (415) 435-3522, (415) 897-0715, www.angelisland.com.
Richardson Bay Audobon Center and Sanctuary and the Lyford House at 376 Greenwood Beach Road (415) 388-2524.
Old St. Hilary’s Church and Historic Preserve-contact Landmarks Society (415) 435-1853.
China Cabin-contact the Landmarks Society at (415) 435-1853.
Railroad Ferry Museum-contact the Landmarks Society at (415) 435-1853.
Tiburon Historic Walking Tours-Carolyn Oller leads 1-hour tours Sat and Sun at 2:30pm meet in plaza area east of ferry dock by the locomotive windsock (415) 435-5636.
